Will Barratt, Ph.D.
I found a great photo of a formal place setting recently with
each plate, bowl, glass, cup, and utensil labeled and I posted the photo to Facebook. Anyone can find such a picture by searching
for images using some variation of the words formal, place, and setting.
It is curious that the first several hundred images show a European
place setting. When you add a nation to
the search terms the pictures and diagrams remain largely unchanged. The formal European place setting has taken
over the world, easing out indigenous place settings. I must admit that I do like the irony of the photo
of a hot dog and bun on a plate with a knife and fork.
The short discussion of the photo on Facebook brought up the
critical question: Where did these rules come from and why do we have them. A dinner companion once regaled us with a
story of a formal event that she attended annually in Paris, the purpose of
which, she claimed, “was to set the table in such a way that no one would know
what everything was for”.
What is the purpose of formal rules of etiquette?
The answer is simple and horrifying. You, me, him, her, and everyone else is the
etiquette police. The purpose of formal
rules of etiquette are to separate out the social classes. Formal rules of etiquette are the rules of membership
in the prestige social class. When each
of us participates in co-creating these socially constructed rules we are reproducing
the social class structure of the world.
We are facilitating social injustice when we assume that everyone can,
and even should, adhere to certain rules of dining. Don’t forget that the formal place setting is
designed around certain foods prepared in certain ways. If your foods are different then you should
have different formal place settings.
Many Asian cultures use chopsticks of some variety and this reflects
food preparation practices dating back thousands of years. Reliance on formal rules of dining behavior
is one way in which social class is reproduced.
Even reliance on informal rules of dining behavior is one of the ways in
which the social class hierarchy is reproduced.
Formal rules and formal utensils are for the upper classes and there are
other rules and utensils for the middle and lower classes. Internationally many of the formal rules are
based on the European multi-utensil model in spite of long term dining
practices with other utensils.
Colleges and universities, institutions dedicated to helping
students build intellectual, cultural, and social capital in order to build
economic capital, don’t really help students learn formal etiquette rules. While there are occasional etiquette dinners
to help students who didn’t learn the multi-utensil dinner skills at home,
attending a few dinners and learning to eat your soup by spooning it away from
your body hardly offsets formal dining at home and at restaurants. Dining halls on campus are more accurately
described as market driven efficient feeding stations. Finding a soup spoon among the utensils in a
student dining hall is difficult. In reality, the people who manage student dining
halls are very good at providing what students want to eat and the two plate
sizes, two glass sizes, one bowl, and a knife, fork, spoon makes the whole
process cost effective.
Of course, exploring rules of formal place settings and
etiquette are an entry way to exploring all of the formal rules of the social
classes. There are a myriad other rules,
some quite secret, that act as membership rules for the prestige class. The prestige variety of English, the posh or
upscale accent, greeting rituals, dress codes, and oenological knowledge are
other examples of prestige social class rules.
Having homogeneity of norms helps build and sustain relationships,
whether these are language norms or dining norms. There are dangers inherent when one set of
norms is elevated as the formal rules. I
am not arguing against dining etiquette, I am fairly fluent in at least three
styles of dining rules, I just want us to be aware that our participation in
these rules has consequences.
So, wash your hands before you eat and then use your
fingers. Or not.